Sacai Spring 2023 Menswear

There’s a fall 2014 Sacai leather Perfecto/hunting jacket hybrid in my closet that I pulled out several times this winter. I have other, newer jackets, including by Sacai; the fact that I keep going back to that one says a lot about what Chitose Abe does. There’s some special kind of magic in her mash-ups; they simply don’t age.

Still, Abe is responsible for producing multiple collections a year, and reanimating her signatures when she does so. For her spring 2023 men’s and resort 2023 women’s lineups she came at that newness first via fabrication. She’s using Loro Piana Storm System wool for outerwear and tailored separates, and Thomas Mason cotton for shirting. Both are standard bearers for quality and timelessness, the very definition of “anti-trend,” though it’s true that anti-trend concept has become rather trendy post-pandemic.

Of course, Abe is using those materials “in a Sacai way,” and that’s where the second element of freshness comes from. The shirts are patchworked from mismatched stripes, or cut with slits at the sides so they can be worn like capes. Meanwhile, on her tailoring for both women and men, pleats took center stage. The neat pleats give jackets, long skirts, and cropped pants an appealing fluidity and  movement. It’s an ease that is anything but easy to achieve, Abe said. She likes a design challenge; she built her brand identity on them.

She also likes collaborations and this season she came back around to a conspirator she worked with last year, the graffiti artist Eric Haze. For fall 2021, Haze “tagged” a Sacai t-shirt with the phrase “One Kind Word.” This time around, that phrase and the words “As One” were repeated mantra-like—knitted into chunky sweaters, woven as jacquards on pants, and printed bandana-style on breezy dresses. Timeless sentiments, but never more timely than now.

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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-menswear/sacai, Vogue

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