Pigalle Spring 2023 Menswear

This Pigalle collection came with two parties, the first last Tuesday at Paris’s wonderful citywide solstice debauch, the Fête de la Musique, and the second a follow-up edition of Stéphane Ashpool’s ongoing jazz shebang shortly afterwards. Then on Sunday he hosted a community basketball party/tournament on his block and unveiled the clothes—along with two new bikes for Van Moof—in the middle of it.

Unlike his old partner in fashion Charaf Tajer, Ashpool is currently one of the few potential qualified candidates in Paris who you can say most definitely won’t be the next Louis Vuitton menswear designer. It’s not that he couldn’t be: Through Pigalle he shaped one of the most influential contemporary brands in all of so called streetwear and prefigured much that came afterwards. However Ashpool has a gig (secret for now) with an even bigger audience on the horizon, and furthermore is reluctant to give up his wayward freedom to work for The Man.

This collection, latest Nike edition apart, will be available only to order: effectively ‘streetwear’ couture. The beautiful pleating in basketball panels on shirts and sections in shorts was one of several details realized in the métiers d’art ateliers now housed in the Chanel 19M building designed by Rudy Ricciotti. The overall flow was strong, with rope-belted blended rainbow suiting, cropped leather Swoosh-emblemed bombers, and cycle shirting. Way before it became a marketing strategy adopted by others, Pigalle was one of the first brands to see its fashion output as a means to a greater end. Props to Ashpool for sticking to his path, as well as those at Nike and Chanel who continue to have his back.

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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-menswear/pigalle, Vogue

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