At Koché, Christelle Kocher is always walking a line between opposites. High and low, the couture salon and the street, feathers and sequins accenting athletic shapes—for Kocher, the most fertile ground is shaded by contrasts. Her new pre-fall collection follows a similar path; she describes it as an exchange between craft and comfort.
In practice, that means she lined nicely-cut trenches with sport mesh, dressed up hoodies and sweatpants with a geometric art deco-ish motif that has become something of a monogram, cut a snap-up puffer in quilted satin, and chopped off the bottoms of lace stockings, added cascades of ruffles, and came up with what has to be the season’s most tempting party pants.
The stars of the collection are shaggy sweaters in swirling colors inspired by Peter Doig’s landscape paintings. In crewneck and hooded cardi versions, they’re styled on girls and guys in her lookbook, with sequin slip skirts or sweatpants, and look equally at home with either.
Bringing evening glamour to everyday life is another essential part of the Koché m.o. The sculpted metal heel sandals and strappy knee-high boots she paired with most looks here have been part of her repertoire almost since the beginning, but with the pandemic finally, hopefully loosening its grip on us, they look newly right this season.