Elie Saab Fall 2022 Couture

Peacocks of the world, rejoice! Elie Saab has launched a men’s couture line for which the word ‘flamboyant’ is an understatement. Presented at today’s show, it rivals in opulence his women’s, and boasts the sumptuous embellishments and embroidered intricacies that are Saab’s signature.

“I’ve been receiving requests to dress men for quite some time,” explained the Lebanese designer backstage. “They want to show off, to be visible, to get the attention.” Rest assured, they’ll receive loads of it in any one of the many headturners Saab has concocted.

The sense of drama and the goût for the spectacular agree with Saab, and there was no lack of either in both lines. The first two looks were equally majestic, both intricately carpeted with multicolored plumage intarsia on black velvet. For her, a sweeping floor-length ball gown with criss-crossed ribbons on the bodice; for him, a regal cape embroidered in a mosaic of wispy feathers, worn over a tailored black velvet tux. If you want to make a jaw-dropping entrance, Saab is definitely your go-to guy.

A theme of flame red and black kept the first part of the collection on a high-drama note. Black mesh see-through gowns were heavily embroidered with serpentine curlicues, which were repeated on the men’s generous caftans, while shapely sculptural column dresses in deep red taffeta had cloud-like sleeves poufed up to the ears. Then Saab took a turn for the dreamy, but without letting the pyrotechnics out of the picture. “I was thinking about how the light turns magical, into pink gold at dusk, after the sunset and before the evening,” he mused. A parade of powder pink and nude mesh tulle numbers followed. Variously shaped but all equally glamorous, they were bathed in shimmering sequins in every possible dimension, together with beaded fringes, embroidered tassels, drippings of crystals, and appliqués of organza petals.

Offered in pink and gold hued brocade, masculine suits with cropped tuxedos were wrapped in trailing stoles encrusted with lace. Billowy capes in hammered silk were worn over matching slim trousers, and paired with bohemian black poet shirts. Peacocks will have to prove their worth, if they want to show off their plumage in Saab’s unabashedly sumptuous attires.

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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-couture/elie-saab, Vogue

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